How to test fabric stretch
Working with knits has the lovely benefit of providing a forgiving fit due to the stretchy nature of the materials, but really nailing the fit is still incredibly satisfying, and the stretchiness of your fabric is a big factor. If you’d like to be a little more precise to ensure that you’re getting the best possible fit, here’s how to check the stretch percentage of your fabric:
Place a ruler or tape measure along horizontal edge of your fabric. For most knits, this will be the cut edge of your fabric, perpendicular to the selvage. Hold one end at the 0 mark, and then pull a 10” section until it’s fully stretched.
Measure the extra inches and multiply by 10 for your stretch percentage. For example, stretching to 14” indicates 40% stretch (4” of stretch), while stretching to 20” indicates 100% stretch (10” of stretch.)
Turn your fabric 90 degrees and repeat this process along the selvage edge to determine the vertical stretch of your fabric.
If you are working with a mesh or lace fabric, the stretchier direction is likely to be along the selvage edge (the opposite of most jersey knit fabrics.) If this is the case, just reverse the directions above and treat the selvage edge of your material as the “horizontal” edge.
VAVA sewing patterns come with recommendations for the ideal fabric stretch range for each project, as well as advice on how to size up or down based on your materials <3
Getting a feel for fabric recovery is another great way to better understand how a knit fabric behaves and fits- more on that soon!
